A peacoat is a short, double-breasted coat in heavy wool, usually navy. Sailors in European navies wore it first, and the US Navy issued it for generations. Look for broad lapels, a collar that turns up against wind, and a hem that covers your seat.
That is the short answer. The longer one explains its shape, and what separates a good one from a costume.
Where the peacoat came from
Nobody is fully sure where the name started. The Naval History and Heritage Command says sailors have worn it in cold weather for more than 200 years. It gives two likely roots for the name.
The first is Dutch. “Pij” meant a coarse woolen cloth, per the Navy’s history office. The Oxford dictionary ties “pea jacket” to the Dutch “pijjakker.” It dates the term to the early 1700s, as Gentleman’s Gazette notes.
The second is the fabric. Early coats were cut from pilot cloth, a heavy blue wool. A “pilot coat” may have shortened to “P-coat” over time. The Navy history office lists both and picks neither.
The shape came from the job. Sailors climbed rigging and worked sails in bad weather. A short coat let them move. In Schott NYC’s account, the double-breasted front kept buttons off to the sides, away from ropes. The pockets sat near vertical, over the flanks.
The details shifted over the last century. Coats from World War I had about ten buttons, according to Gentleman’s Gazette. Later coats had eight. Current versions show about six. US Navy buttons carry a fouled anchor. Enlisted sailors got black buttons, and officers got gold.
The peacoat became a civilian staple after World War II. Surplus coats filled stores, and the shape never really left. The Navy itself moved on. It chose a synthetic parka in 2018 and stopped issuing peacoats in May 2019, per Gentleman’s Gazette.
How a peacoat should fit
A peacoat is a fitted coat. It should close cleanly over a sweater without pulling.
- Chest: Button it over the thickest knit you plan to wear. The fabric should lie flat. If the back vent gapes open, size up.
- Shoulders: The seam should end at the edge of your shoulder. A peacoat has little padding, so the fit shows.
- Sleeves: The Navy guideline ends the cuff three quarters of the way to the knuckle, per Gentleman’s Gazette. That covers a shirt cuff with room to spare.
- Length: Most sit between 30 and 33 inches at the back. Schott’s 740 is 32 inches. Quince’s is also 32 inches in a medium. Below the seat is fine. Mid-thigh is a different coat.
If you sit between sizes, take the larger one and have a tailor take in the sides. Letting a coat out is much harder.
What to look for
Fiber
The classic coat is mostly wool. Do not assume one current Navy specification applies to every peacoat; this guide compares individual product labels, per Gentleman’s Gazette. Schott says the nylon in its 80/20 coat adds strength. Softness, drape and wind resistance depend on the finished fabric and construction, rather than the fiber percentages alone. For more on reading fiber labels, see our natural fiber clothing guide.
Weight
Coat cloth is sold by ounces per yard. Weight helps compare cloth, but lining, density, fit and layering also affect warmth and stiffness.
- About 17 oz: a city coat for mild winters. Buck Mason says its 17 oz melton is about half the original naval weight.
- About 24 oz: a comparison weight in this guide, not a verified current Navy specification.
- About 32 oz: heavy and armor-like. Schott’s 740 and 782USA both use it.
If you live somewhere mild, a lighter coat will see more wear. For wind, compare the coat’s weave, closure, lining and stated weather protection.
Construction
- Melton or kersey: Both are dense, felted wools that shed wind. Older Navy coats used kersey. Melton took over later.
- Collar: It should stand up and button across the throat. That is the coat’s best feature in weather.
- Lining: A quilted lining adds warmth. Satin or twill slides over sweaters more easily.
- Pockets: Look for vertical hand-warmer pockets. Flap pockets usually mean a fashion take, not the original pattern.
- Buttons: Anchor buttons signal the Navy pattern. Horn buttons read a little more tailored.
How to wear a peacoat
A peacoat sits between a work jacket and an overcoat. It is dressier than a chore coat and more casual than a topcoat. Here are four outfits that work.
- The classic: navy peacoat, cream cable-knit sweater, dark jeans and brown leather boots. This is the outfit most people picture.
- Weekend: peacoat over a flannel shirt, gray chinos and white leather sneakers. Leave the coat open on mild days.
- Smart casual: peacoat over an oxford shirt and a navy crewneck, with gray wool trousers and loafers.
- Texture on texture: a brown or charcoal peacoat with corduroy pants and a heavy knit. See our fall outfits for men for more layering ideas.
One rule from Gentleman’s Gazette: skip the peacoat over a suit. The two levels of formality clash. A topcoat is the better choice there.
Buying a vintage Navy peacoat
Surplus coats are still easy to find on eBay and in consignment shops. A few details help you date one, per Gentleman’s Gazette.
- Buttons: World War I coats had more buttons, some with stars. World War II coats carry the fouled anchor.
- Label: Many wartime coats read “Manufactured By Naval Clothing Factory.”
- Pocket lining: Corduroy lined the hand pockets until 1968. Cotton replaced it after that.
- Cut: World War II coats run the slimmest. Coats from the 1950s and 1960s are roomier. A wartime 44 can wear like a modern 42.
Check the shoulders and back length in person or by measurement. Old coats were sized for a different build, and a tailor can only do so much.
6 peacoats worth buying
Ordered by price, lowest first. Prices and stock checked on each brand’s site on October 19, 2026.
1. Quince Wool Cashmere Peacoat: $200
The budget pick. It is 90% wool and 10% cashmere with a polyester twill lining, per Quince. It runs 32 inches in a medium and comes in five colors, including Melange Oak Brown. It is made in Cambodia and is dry clean only. Sizes XS through XXXL were in stock in navy.
Shop the Quince Wool Cashmere Peacoat
2. Schott NYC 740 Original Navy Pea Coat: $450
The closest thing to the issued coat. It uses 32 oz melton in an 80/20 wool and nylon blend, with a quilted lining and anchor buttons. It is 32 inches long, comes in long sizes, and is made in the USA, per Schott. Most sizes in navy and black were in stock.
3. Buck Mason Italian Melton Admiral Peacoat: $548
A lighter, slimmer take in Mahogany brown. It is cut from 17 oz Italian melton with a brushed Japanese satin lining, per Buck Mason. It suits mild winters and layers over a tee or a light knit.
Shop the Buck Mason Admiral Peacoat
4. J.Press Made-in-England Navy Melton Wool Peacoat: $695
The prep pick. It is 100% British melton wool with horn buttons and a Black Watch tartan lining. It is made in England, per J.Press. Small through XXL were in stock.
5. Schott NYC 782USA Melton Wool Peacoat: $785
Schott’s officer-style coat. It uses 32 oz melton, a ten-button front and corduroy-lined hand pockets. It runs 33 inches at the back and is made in the USA, per Schott. Small through 2XL were in stock in navy.
6. Todd Snyder Italian Wool-Cashmere Peacoat: $998
The soft, tailored option. It is cut from an Italian wool and cashmere cloth, per Todd Snyder. Navy is $998. Black is $898. Expect a cleaner, city look than the Navy pattern coats above.
Shop the Todd Snyder Wool-Cashmere Peacoat
Frequently asked questions
Why is it called a peacoat?
Two theories lead. One traces it to the Dutch “pij,” a coarse wool cloth. The other traces it to pilot cloth and the “P-coat.” The Navy’s history office lists both.
What is the difference between a peacoat and an overcoat?
A peacoat is short, double-breasted and ends around the top of the thigh. An overcoat is longer, usually knee length, and made to go over tailoring.
How tight should a peacoat be?
Close, but not strained. It should button over a sweater with no pulling at the buttons or the back vent.
Is a peacoat warm enough for winter?
Warmth depends on the complete coat, your layers and the conditions. Published fabric weights are not temperature or windproof ratings.
Prices and stock as shown on each brand’s site on October 19, 2026.
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